|Region:||Italy / Piemonte / Barolo / Barolo|
A very different animal from the 1990 Scarzello Barolo Vigna Merenda. Confidently its own, this Langhe is a shining example of how a well-made Nebbiolo can be great without having to measure up to a Barolo or Barbaresco.
By combining the lower intensity and intuitively precise balance it delivers the idea of frutti di bosco (without the obvious fruitiness), dusted slightly with a fine powder of salt and savory notes of seaweed.
Balance is the primary characteristic here. Conscious attempts to dissect this balance into individual components becomes annoyingly elusive after a while. Fruit? Yes, but it’s muted, more of an idea of fruit. Freshness? Nothing extraordinary. It is fresh, but in the way that an autumnal forest can be fresh on a crisp dry day. Structure? It’s there, but you don’t notice it and you definitely can’t outline it. It has the rigid fluidity to it. Soft to accommodate, but strong and resilient to support and hold its shape.
No single element stands out and yet the wine does. This synergy is inspired and trumps crude complexity any day of the week.
The verdict: I wish I had a few cases of this.