2000 Soldera

April 2, 2015

Type:Red Wine
Varietal:Sangiovese Grosso
Producer:Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Case Basse
Region:Italy / Toscana / Montalcino / Tavernelle


This bottle provided the unflattering comparison base for the identical Case Basse served just before it. Initially the difference was stark, it was impossible to say these two came from the same cantina.

Unlike its predecessor, sophisticated pedigree of this one was evident right away.

It started quiet, coy and elegant. Over the next two ours in the glass it opened up finally. Nicely integrated dried sour cherry, fennel, liquorice and violets. Gentle cola aromatics, a Brunello telltale for me, revealed themselves later. Clean aromatic line sparsely sprinkled by tertiary aromas of dark bread crust and underbrush.

The flavor was a logical continuation of its aromatic portrait. A very pleasant, restrained and classy mix of dry red fruit and shy floral elements with herby and earthy savouriness of traditional-style Brunello.

Unfortunately, while still very good, I did not feel inspired by this bottle. The wine did not feel as vibrant and focused as the top-notch Brunello, let alone Soldera, should be. In all honesty – after the bottle was revealed, I did feel the pressure to reassess my perception upward. But re-reading the “blind” notes it just didn’t click. This particular bottle was good, but not special.

As is the case with great wines underperforming – the cause could be a myriad of factors. From the drinker’s skewed perception, to storage issues, to opening it at the wrong time on its evolution cycle, etc.  Which one of them played its role here? Who knows.

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