2009 Cerbaiona Rosso di Montalcino

September 18, 2014

Name:Rosso di Montalcino
Type:Red Wine
Region:Italy / Toscana / Montalcino


Since 1981 Diego and Nora Molinari, the owners and ex-winemakers at Cerbaiona, produce very traditional Brunelli which are easily among the very best. They also produce Rosso di Montalcino and Cerbaiona IGT (Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Malvasia Nera blend).

Until around 2007 Diego was making the wines himself, but as the age crept up he really needed someone younger to lend a hand. That someone ended up being an enologist Valerio Coltellini, who is largely in charge of the winemaking at Cerbaiona now.

After retiring from his career as an airline pilot in the late 1970s, Diego settled in Montalcino committed to give in to his passion for wine.

Having befriended Maestro himself – the late Giulio Gambelli – early on, Diego learned and built his approach on the principles of working with Sangiovese that Maestro preached. I’ve not tasted the old vintages of Cerbaiona, but the new ones show that while Diego clearly took the idea of Sangiovese’s greatness from Gambelli, he pursued a slightly different interpretation of it than evident in the monument to Gambelli’s genious in Montalcino – Poggio di Sotto’s Brunello. A good example of a terroir-driven interpretation of the similar philosophy.

Harvested from a tiny 3ha plot – these serious, broody, coiled-spring wines from Cerbaiona are quite unyielding in their youth, but with age and time offer a magnificent and unique character.

Molinari’s style is evident in their Rosso as well.

Traditional and composed. Fruit holds the ground confidently, but doesn’t overcompensate allowing the wine’s earthy soul to feel perfectly comfortable where it’s at – somewhat in the back when young, but slowly rolling to the front with age, soaking up all the fruit to provide that seamless integration and balance which transforms into emotions, rather than descriptive notes.

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