2006 Zidarich Vitovska Collection

September 18, 2014

Name:Vitovska Collection
Vintage:2006
Type:White Wine
Varietal:Vitovska
Producer:Vitovska
Region:Italy / Friuli-Venezia Giulia
Alcohol:n/a

This Vitovska is a special and limited edition bottling from Zidarich. Aged for 4 years in a 10HL botte only 1300 bottles of it were released. While not quite the Vodopivec (although close to Skerk), but definitely along the same lines. Still somewhat formula-driven (if that’s possible) compared to Vodopivec’s Vitovska.

2011 Zidarich Vitovska Classic Line

September 18, 2014

Name:Vitovska
Vintage:2011
Type:White Wine
Varietal:Vitovska
Producer:Zidarich
Region:Italy / Friuli-Venezia Giulia
Alcohol:n/a

Benjamin Zidarich founded his winery in Karst/Carso region of Friuli in 1988. Over the years he expanded his organic operation from 0.5ha to ~8ha, focusing almost exclusively on the local varietals (Vitovska, Malvasia, Terano), with Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot used alongside them in the two blends (Prulke and Ruje).

There are two different bottlings of Zidarich Vitovska in the stable. This one, of the Classic Line, and the limited quantity of the Collection Vitovska V. produced from the exceptional 2006 vintage.

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2009 Palari Rosso del Soprano

September 18, 2014

Name:Rosso del Soprano
Vintage:2009
Type:Red Wine
Varietal:Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio, Nocera, Cappuccio Tignolino, Acitana, Galatena,Calabresed
Producer:Palari
Region:Italy / Sicilia / Faro
Alcohol:n/a

Rosso del Soprano, figuratively speaking, is a junior brother of Palari’s Faro. A parallel with Brunello and Rosso would probably be a good place to start.

The blend is virtually the same, butWhereas Faro spends at least 18 months in oak, Rosso receives 8.

This is a proper Nerello-driven goodness which does resemble Etna quite a bit. Finesse and complexity, chocolate, tobacco, red fruit, great balance and all that will get better with time.

1998 Chateau de Pibarnon

September 18, 2014

Name:Chateau de Pibarnon
Vintage:1998
Type:Red Wine
Varietal:Mourvedre, Grenache
Producer:Chateau de Pibarnon
Region:France / Provence / Bandol
Alcohol:n/a

Chateau de Pibarnon is arguably THE staple of Bandol. 90% Mourvedre and 10% Grenache. Maceration is quite long at 20 days. Elevage is around 18 months in wood.

Quite animalistic. Meat, leather, touch sweet and slightly green, but mostly savory and just very good. Solid weight and texture. Plenty of life left.

1999 Petrolo Torrione

September 18, 2014

Name:Torrione
Vintage:1999
Type:Red Wine
Varietal:Sangiovese, Merlot
Producer:Petrolo
Region:Italy / Toscana
Alcohol:13.5%

Torrione is Petrolo’s Sangiovese-based (70%+) cuvee, first produced in 1988. Merlot and sometimes Cabernet Sauvignon help complete the picture.

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2000 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano

September 18, 2014

Name:Barbaresco Santo Stefano
Vintage:2000
Type:Red Wine
Varietal:Nebbiolo
Producer:Bruno Giacosa
Region:Italy / Piemonte/ Barbaresco
Alcohol:n/a

Bruno Giacosa wines are (or were?) one of Piemonte’s greatest.

Keep in mind, there are effectively two kinds of Giacosa wines. You can find a little bit more information on their website, but don’t expect a detailed description.

One, labeled Casa Vinicola Bruno Giacosa (like this one) at the bottom of the white (and only white!) label – is made from bought grapes.

Another, labeled “Azienda Agricola Falletto di Bruno Giacosa” at the bottom of the label (white or reddish/brown) – is made from own grapes.

This particular bottle brought elegance, layers, liquorice and hint of that seductive sweetness. Still tight, although not too prohibitive. Fresh and primary. Very very nice and will only get better.

1999 Lisini Ugolaia Brunello di Montalcino

September 18, 2014

Name:Ugolaia Brunello di Montalcino
Vintage:1999
Type:Red Wine
Varietal:Sangiovese
Producer:Lisini
Region:Italy / Toscana / Montalcino
Alcohol:n/a

Unlike their regular Brunello, Lisini Ugolaia is a single cru (Ugolaia vineyard) bottling that is produced only in the best years and gets an slightly longer skin contact (20-26 days vs 18-24 for normale). The rest of the winemaking process is roughly the same.

Slow starter which built itself up nicely in ~2hrs of air. Slightly austere-ish Brunello, but a solid Sangiovese. Definitely prefer this one over ’01 (read here).

2009 Cerbaiona Rosso di Montalcino

September 18, 2014

Name:Rosso di Montalcino
Vintage:2009
Type:Red Wine
Varietal:Sangiovese
Producer:Cerbaiona
Region:Italy / Toscana / Montalcino
Alcohol:14.0%

Since 1981 Diego and Nora Molinari, the owners and ex-winemakers at Cerbaiona, produce very traditional Brunelli which are easily among the very best. They also produce Rosso di Montalcino and Cerbaiona IGT (Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Malvasia Nera blend).

Until around 2007 Diego was making the wines himself, but as the age crept up he really needed someone younger to lend a hand. That someone ended up being an enologist Valerio Coltellini, who is largely in charge of the winemaking at Cerbaiona now.

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2011 Dauvissat-Camus La Forest Chablis Premier Cru

September 18, 2014

Name:Chablist La Forest Premier Cru
Vintage:2011
Type:White Wine
Varietal:Chardonnay
Producer:Domaine Dauvissat
Region:France / Burgundy / Chablis
Alcohol:n/a

Dauvissat is one of Chablis hallmark producers. Frankly, if you think of hardcore Chablis – two names come up right away: Dauvissat and Raveneau. Of the two, Dauvissat should be more yielding and more approachable at a younger age. Mind you, it is still a Chablis which will dictate how the dinner will go, not the other way around. And you better listen to it.

This particular bottle – young, but delivers on all levels. Mineral, vibrant and, surprisingly for this age, readably nuanced. One of my all-time-favorites value for money options.

2010 Pelissero Dolcetto d’Alba Augenta

September 18, 2014

Name:Dolcetto d'Alba Augenta
Vintage:2010
Type:Red Wine
Varietal:Dolcetto
Producer:Pelissero
Region:Italy / Piemonte
Alcohol:n/a

Dark cherry reduction, a little green, cranberry. Decent balance, decent seriousness, decent length. A lot of the components are there, but just feels a little young.